5.14.2010

The whole world on one table













Susan Feniger is officially the toast of the town, and not because she's on Top Chef Masters. Her now-famous restaurant Street showcases street food from around the world. Those who can't decide between Indian, Japanese or Russian now needn't have to. What's more, is that her street food comes out in tapas-style servings so everyone can try a piece.

L.A. Weekly's food critic Jonathan Gold (a.k.a. the guy with the coolest job in the world) calls it a "...hypercool, essential L.A. restaurant."

Even The New York Times caught wind of the phenomenon; "Sampling the wares of international street food vendors is sometimes not for the faint of heart or stomach. Susan Feniger's Street, the celebrated chef's first solo venture, serves up the exotic without the risk."

The Los Angeles Times encourages you to "Go ahead. Take a walk on the wild side."


I am not even taking into account all the raving going on in Gourmet magazine and countless T.V. features. I had had enough. It was high time I tasted the goods or consider myself white trash. I tend to set goals for myself to avoid looking at myself as white trash, such as seeing Europe. Thank goodness I crossed that off the list - being the only person in the circles I run in to not see Europe troubled me until my honeymoon at 30.

Dining at Street was next on my list of things to do to avoid being a rube. I ended up going two nights in a row. There were so many outlandish flavors and textures to conquer, I figured the tiny restaurant would still need a kitchen the size of a gymnasium. The first night I was seduced by the curry-rich paani puri, the sweet Moscow eggplant and spicy gumbo. I had to go the second evening just to sample the other treats, like the Arabic lamb kafta balls (as good as my mother's) the Argentinian ricotta cakes and ono sashimi.

I may never go to Burma or Malaysia, but at least I can get a taste. This is a hub for those with adventurous palettes, the well-traveled, the risk-takers. For all you who haven't seen Europe of the Orient, this place will make you feel a whole lot better about it.

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